Tim Winton says it best.
Somewhere about half way through the book "Breath" the main character, Piklet, surfs "Old Smokey" solo. He's been shunned by his mates and stinging with bent pride he takes to the outside bombora on the biggest of days just to to prove he can, you know, to stick it up his mates.
Anyway Tim Winton's description of his first wave in that session says it all. I'm certainly not going to try and out write Tim Winton. If you don't get why surfers ride big waves then read that book or at least that chapter and you will work it out.
But to me there is more than the thrill of the ride from these rare days of magnificence. Scale up the water, the wind and the overall power and I humble (verb) in it's presence. The magnificence spills into the visual.
I'm not swimming it, I don't need to. The ocean brings it to me. You can bet that my heart races all that day. Firstly on the ski or chopper ride to the spot. It's kind of a mix of anticipation and fear. When I'm there and in the mode it's what I see that takes over. It's like a collision of the three V's. Volume, velocity and visual. That's not true physics, it's what I see through my lens.
So right now I reckon I haven't seen the best images of the "Big Day", not from me anyway. And I'm hungry for it.
Come on the Indian, come on Winter let's ramp it up.